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July 2019

Wrench Tip Wednesday: Jetting

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Wrench Tip Wednesday: Jetting Touching a carburetor on a dirt bike may sound scary or a chore to some. So, if you need carburetor work or jetting done, taking it to a mechanic may be a good idea. Jetting your dirt bike’s carburetor is determining the proper air-to-fuel ratio the engine receives. Running the correct ratio of fuel and air makes your dirt bike run well. Jets of different sizes helps increase or decrease the fuel/air ratio depending on what your bike requires and many other factors. Most dirt bikes off the floor might look “ready to ride” but that is not the case and some may require jetting changes. A lot of factors influence whether or not you’ll need to jet the carb. Such as, the weather, humidity, altitude, upgrades to engine or exhaust system, or sometimes routine maintenance. The carburetor consists of four components: Pilot Jet – this controls the amount of fuel when idling Main Jet – this controls the fuel when you open up the throttle (between 50 and 100 percent power) Jet Needle – this controls the fuel when you open and close the throttle (between 20 and 80 percent power) Needle Jet – this is what the jet needle pops in and out of (between 15 to 60 percent of throttle But how do you know if the bike needs to be jetted? After breaking in your dirt bike, it’s easy to determine whether you need to jet the carb. BUT it will require you to look at the spark plug. Take the plug out and if they look clean, you’re good to go. However, if you see black soot then you’re running rich, meaning you’ve got too much fuel. If you see white residue then you’ve got too much air flowing in or you’re running lean. Another way to determine is how the bike rides. If your dirt bike tends to be sluggish when you get on it and/or it backfires when opened up a bit, you’re probably injecting too much fuel. If your bike can take off in a sprint but lacks overall power, then you’ve got too much air. Jetting can be easy but also tricky. If you’re running rich, check the main jet, jet needle, and needle jet. First, tinker with the main jet and if that solves the problem you found the easy solution. If it doesn’t solve the problem then you’ll need to check the jet needle and then the needle jet. Don’t mess with all three jets at once. Change the main jet first and see if that solves the problem. If you change all three you’ll never know what jet posed the air/fuel mixture problem, you’ll overcompensate to lean and create a bigger problem than necessary. Your bike might run rich in the late summer months and then run lean come early spring. Elevations also mess with jetting because of the dense air. Higher altitude (thinner air) requires less fuel or leaner jetting to run correctly. Jets can be bought separately but we favor towards using JD Jet Kit. It comes with a chart and you just follow the directions of what to do and what to change based on where you’re riding and temperatures. It makes it so easy! Plus, you will have extra jets if you need them vs not having extras. More Posts Back To Blog Page

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Beta MY2020

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Beta MY2020 Betamotor released their new generation of Enduro dirt bikes but this is no simple redesign. Large advances and many changes have been made to 2020 Beta. 8 different engine sizes available, four being 2 stroke (125, 200, 250, 300) and four being 4 stroke (350, 390, 430, 500), giving new and old customers a large selection of bikes. Beta prides themselves with developing bikes that fit into the “rideability” category. This makes the off road riding experience fun and easy to ride from beginners to seasoned riders. Major advances have been made to both the two stroke and four stroke bikes. The four strokes have a complete redesigned engine which made the bike lose weight, a total of 2.2lbs. The center of gravity was moved closer to the swingarm pivot which results in improved handling. The all new magnesium clutch clover improved oil flow into the clutch assembly more efficiently. A new water pump system has improved the flow-rate, keeping the bike’s average temperature much lower, which gives better performance. The cylinder and head have been redesigned with thoughts of keeping the engine at lower temperatures. In 2018, Beta released twin injectors on Race Edition models only, now the RR-S is equipped with the same technology. The clutch was redesigned to give smoother and more modular gear shifting. The gearshift mechanism now has a lighter cam to improve shifting. The two strokes have reduced vibration by increasing inertia and improving the power delivery curve by finally adding a counter-balancer. How exciting! The 250 cylinder has been redesigned to improve torque at low RPM. The 125 has a new cylinder, exhaust flange, exhaust valve system, and new boosters. The new expansion chamber provides a broader range of power delivery. The clutch cover has also been modified with an air purging system operated by the modified clutch mechanism and modified oil inlet cap position to improve oil changes. These changes increased the performance of the 125 but still provides a bike that is easier to ride. Now to the chassis: Beta redesigned the frame’s rigidity to increase agility and stability. Weight was also reduced from these changes, along with vibration. At the base, the frame is narrower than years past to improve handling. The center of gravity is now found closer to the middle of the bike which should make the bike feel lighter along with less weight in the front. For the 2T’s the geometry of the frame is the same but the 4T’s have changed with a steeper steering angle. The swingarm is now longer for 4 strokes and the 200 2T to give better stability and traction. A lot of people will be a fan of this next thing, we sell lots of rear tailpieces. It has been redesigned to reduce breakage. The air box components, electrical components, and oil reservoir (for 2T’s) are now stored inside of it. The air filter mounting system has been modified for quicker and hopefully more accurate installation. The fork design has been improved along with internal valving to work in-line with the all new frame design. A new inner cartridge lowering the center of gravity which provides plushness and square-edge impacts. The shock has new valving to also work in-line with the new frame. The cooling system has been improved by putting the hoses inside the frame along with more efficient radiators. This allows the engine to operate at lower temperatures. The fuel tanks have been increased in size, 2.4 gallons for the four strokes and 2.55 gallons for the two strokes. The kickstand has a bigger foot pad. The chain guide is longer to suit the new swingarm. What about the design? If you have seen pictures of all new 2020’s, they look a lot different than year’s past. The plastics have a completely new look improving ergonomics. A redesigned seat to make sitting more comfortable. A new design to the frame protectors making them more stylish and appealing. The composite subframe was modified to lose weight but to match up to the new airbox design. But don’t worry the push button seat removal is still there! If these changes don’t get you excited, I am not sure what will! You can expect to see the two stroke models in September and the four stroke models in November. The race editions have not been announced yet but stay tuned in the coming months. Don’t forget, our dealership, Bonecutter Off Road stocks tons of OEM and aftermarket accessories for Beta dirt bikes and Beta trials bikes! More Posts Back To Blog Page

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Wrench Tip Wednesday: Clutch Problems

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Wrench Tip Wednesday: Clutch Problems How long a clutch will last depends on the rider and conditions. If you are hard on a clutch, you hopefully are already aware of that otherwise DNF’s could be in your future. When a clutch slips or is in need of replacement, peak performance is hard to come by, so get ahead of the game and preform maintenance. Sometimes, new clutch plates is not the issue, all components that make the clutch work should be checked. If the clutch lever feels harder when pulled, the cable might need replaced. A cable that is routed badly can also cause this. Make sure the cable is not getting hung up in the handlebars or even the handguards when turning. If it does, fix it, if you don’t chances of it breaking all the way through the line is high which can cause an avoidable DNF. A slipping clutch is annoying because it impacts the power the bike puts on the ground. If you are in a race situation, this feeling is even worse. It will still shift but the doesn’t want to go. You may even smell burnt oil. Generally, worn out clutch plates or pressure plates cause the clutch to slip. In order to figure out which or both is bad, the clutch will need disassembled. Then measure the thickness of both new and used plates using a micrometer. Wore out plates will have less thickness than new plates. The drive plate (steels or aluminum), pressure plate, and fibers all need checked. Sometimes, it is obvious without evening measuring. Look for burn marks on the steels and some bikes are equipped with aluminum plates which will wear quickly. We have even seen broken fibers. A worn-out clutch basket can cause poor disengagement. The power is affected greatly by this but instead of the gears slipping, the gears are sticky. The shift lever will have a delay when shifting through the gears. If this is happening to you, disassemble the clutch and check the fingers on the basket and make sure they are smooth. Over time, clutch plates wear grooves in the fingers of the basket which makes the clutch not disengage properly. Before pulling the basket, check the pressure plate wear, look for broken fibers, or warped steel plates because that is an indicator for clutch basket and hub wear. What does a clutch pack include? Clutch plates such as fibers and steel make up the pack. The basket, pressure plates, and cover gasket are not included. Some manufactures, such as Hinson, sell springs in their clutch packs. If you burn a clutch often, the springs definitely need to be replaced. Putting stiffer springs is also an option to lessen the wear or better yet avoid being so aggressive on the clutch. If you have an auto clutch, such as Rekluse, all above is the same. From our personal experiences, if a Rekluse auto clutch is set up correctly the clutch pack can last a long time. My race bike (2018 Beta 250) has 100 hours on it and is just now needing a clutch. Getting that much time on a clutch makes the price worth it! If a rider keeps up on oil changes the clutch will last longer than the rider who lets their oil get burnt before changing. Using good quality oil also makes a difference. For Beta we prefer, Motul Transoil and the Beta USA race team uses Motul 7100 10w-40 and it works out great in the 2t clutches. Sherco has a wet clutch so we use BelRay Thumper in it. Keep in mind, clutch issues can make or break you come race day so pay attention prior to race day how the clutch feels and what the oil looks like coming out of it. If you are hard on a clutch, own up to it and keep track of your hours. More Posts Back To Blog Page

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2020 Sherco Product Launch

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2020 Sherco Product Launch Last week was the Sherco 2020 product launch. My dad, Steve Leivan, and I attended along with a select few who got to ride the only Sherco 2020’s in the states! Ryan Young Products took over the Sherco enduro range in the United States a few months ago and is now moving forward as Sherco USA! Good news, this week roughly ninety 2020 Sherco 300 Factory’s 4T and 2T are arriving! So be on the lookout to see these beauty’s in person soon. First ride impressions: My two favorite bikes were the Sherco 125 Racing (even after having one of the hardest wrecks ever it’s still one of my top picks) and the Sherco 250 SE Factory. The 125 was a running machine. You could hardly tell it was a 125 by the amount of power it had. Lightweight and loads of torque made this an all-around fun dirt bike along with being by far the easiest 125 to ride. The Sherco 250 SE is a strong running machine. It wants to go fast and hop over rocks. The faster I went on the better the entire bike as a whole felt. Stock KYB suspension worked remarkable compared to other stock suspensions I have tried. The 250 was very peppy but still a manageable power that could go fast if you want but also slow with lugging capabilities. I also hopped on the 250 SEF Factory. The power is there and smooth but I am not a four stroke person whatsoever. My dad, Steve, top picks were the 250 SEF Factory and the 250 SE Factory. Both these bikes are equipped with KYB suspension. Steve noticed at slower speeds, it felt stiff but the faster you went the more awesome they got. The 250 four stroke had plenty of useable power and ran well. This is a lightweight 4 stroke that holds the standard the well sought after Sherco 300 SEF has set. So, if the 300 is a bit too much for you, the 250 is exceptional! Steve’s thoughts on the 250 two stroke was about the same as mine. He made a point to go slow on it and the throttle response was great. A little burp of the throttle instantly made the bike easily hop over logs and other obstacles! Steve Leivan’s top picks were the 300 SE Factory and 500 SEF Factory. Leivan has never been a huge 300 two stroke fan because his riding style likes a bike that can pull him out of a corner. After riding the new 2020 Sherco 300 SE Factroy, he was highly impressed. The bike has a similar feel to that of a 250 2T, but with more power available. The 500 was just an all-around impressive machine with had loads of power. Leivan also stated, the Sherco 125 was a fun bike to rip and made him feel like a kid again! Sherco in the USA is heading in the direction of growth! Lot’s of bikes will be available throughout the year. As of now, we have Sherco 300 SE and 300 SEF Factory’s coming in the next few weeks. In a month or so, you will find a Sherco 250 SEF Factory sitting on the floor. After riding all the bikes, we will be ordering a Sherco 250 SE. We plan to also pick up the Sherco trials bike line. Be on the lookout for these amazing machines hitting our floors soon. In the meantime, we do have two 2019 Sherco 300 SEF Racing sitting on the showroom floor. More Posts Back To Blog Page

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MORE Hoot Owl Ridge 2019

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MORE Hoot Owl Ridge 2019 Round 3 of the MORE took place this past weekend in Hughesville, MO! Things have finally started to dry out in Missouri and less rain storms going on which mean two things; the dirt was primo or dusty. Let’s just say the dirt was way more on the primo side! Temperatures were a little hotter than any of the other races yet this year, highs in the 90’s and heat index into the 100’s. Staying hydrated before hand and during the weekend was key. Saturday the trail was roughly 4 miles with a little bit of everything in it, long creek section, rocks, hero dirt, itty bitty logs, hills. It was a great combo and kept ya on your toes. In the sportsman race, I got off to a not so great start. For the first 3 laps, we were in a group of four us constantly going back and forth. I finally made the pass on two of the guys and got back up to the next place guy. We might of bumped in the field so I had in my head I was going to pass this dude. We came up to a short creek section with three lines to enter. He took the middle and I took the by far fastest line and jumped into the creek ahead of him. Since I knew the pass was a done deal with no contact, I roosted the shit out of him to return the bumping favor earlier. My heart rate was extremely high the entire race with an average of 174! That’s nuts. I finished 5th in Sportsman Intermediate. The Ladies A race was on a 2 mile course that involved the faster and easier sections from the sportsman race. I recently purchased a Beta 125 with no intent to race it but to play on. I took it out on practice and had a blast. So, I decided to put my big girl panties on and race it. I was a little nervous about the start, I have never done a dead engine start on a kick start only bike. Like I don’t even know what to do lol. Anyways, it started first kick and I pulled the holeshot. I focused on having fun and trying to make the bike sound good. I did not wreck or kill the bike the entire time but my clutching hand felt like it was going to fall off! I finished in 1st place and felt good on the 125. Some people stated, I definitely looked faster on it in the open stuff than on my 250 but need to dial in the more technical, slower riding. If you read my last blog post about the 125, it is crazy what a good set of tires can do to one’s confidence in a bike! After Saturday’s races, I was wore out and exhausted from the heat! Sunday, the course was a little different than Saturdays, another section added in and ran the long creek section the opposite way. I had a better start than on Saturday but someone slid out in front of me so I fell further back in the pack. We had another train of us going for majority of the first lap but made a pass and it spaced us out a little. The second and third lap, there was three of us all together. I finally made a pass on a hill and caught back up to the guy’s that were in 3rd and 4th. I trailed him for awhile until I started to get tired and making more mistakes. I finished 5th in B long. It was a hot, brutal race both days and I looked forward to splashing in the creek every lap for a short lived cool down! Great job to all the Bonecutter Off Road riders! Saturday: Sportsman Expert – Colton Pratt 3rd (Sherco)Sportsman Expert – Chris Cassil 5th (Sherco) Sportsman Expert – Steve Bonecutter 6th (Beta) Sportsman Intermediate – Tayler Bonecutter 5th (Beta) Sportsman Amateur – Chase Rothganger 8th (Beta) Sportsman Amateur +40 – Philip Burger 4th (Beta)Sportsman Amateur +40 – Steve Summers 8th (Beta)Sportsman Amateur +40 – Mike Rothganger 9th (Beta)Sportsman Amateur +40 – Rob Steele 12th (Beta)Sportsman Amateur +40 – Randy Mittman 13th (Beta) Ladies A – Tayler Bonecutter 1st (Beta)Ladies B – Missy Bonecutter 2nd (Sherco) Sunday: Pro – Broc French 3rd (Beta)A – Colton Pratt 1st (Sherco) A – Steve Bonecutter 4th (Beta)A – Chris Cassil 6th (Sherco)B – Tayler Bonecutter 5th (Beta) B+50 – Roger Mackay 2nd (Beta) C – Chase Rothganger 9th (Beta) C+40 – Travis Opie 5th (Sherco) C+40 – Mike Rothganger 7th (Beta) C+50 – Philip Burger 1st (Beta) C+50 – Steve Summers 7th (Beta)C+50 – Rob Steele 13th (Beta)Ladies – Missy Bonecutter 2nd (Beta) More Posts Back To Blog Page

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Wrench Tip Wednesday: Installing an Air Filter

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Wrench Tip Wednesday: Installing an Air Filter Looks like we are finally getting in the drier and hotter part of the year which means it can and will get dusty. With that being said, I find it important to hit on proper insulation of an air filter. Did you know an air filter is one of the most important components on a dirt bike? The purpose of it is to capture dirt to prevent it from getting in the carb and sucked into the engine. So, it is kind of a SUPER BIG DEAL! A leaky air filter can cause premature wear, such as, top end components (piston and rings) wearing out sooner than they should. Before you even oil the filter up, make sure the air box is clean and has no plants growing inside. Having dirt in the air box can increase the chances of getting dirt inside the air box boot and then into the carb. If it is clean, you will not have to worry about this. One of the best things a person can purchase is the Twin Air Airbox Plug! This allows you to spray and scrub on the inside of the airbox without the fear of getting water or dirt in places you do not want to. Glove up and let’s install an air filter properly. The air filter must be clean. If you install a dirty clogged filter, it can reduce performance and make the bike sluggish. Not to mention the potential risk of dirt falling off the filter into the filter boot then into the carb. Take your clean filter and apply foam filter oil to it. Lots of good ones out there – PJ1, Motul, Bel Ray, etc. Most oils can be purchased in two different ways aerosol or pourable. It is personal preference but we prefer to use aerosol spray because it allows control of the amount of oil applied to the filter. It is important to insure coverage of the entire filter, sometimes kneading the oil in is necessary. The oil helps catch the dirt so having too much is always better than not enough. If you choose to use aerosol, take the time to ensure the proper amount of oil is applied. Now that the air filter is all oiled up install your filter cage. Once the cage is in place, the most vital step that is often forgot; apply an ULTRA THICK BEAD OF GREASE around the rim. If this step is skipped you will guarantee yourself a leaky filter and premature engine failure. We recommend a good water resistant one that has stability under high temperatures such as Lucas Red “N” Tacky Grease or Bel Ray Waterproof Grease. Now it is time to install the air filter. Make sure it lines up with the filter box, to insure its 100% sealed. Now you are ready to ride! Pro Tip: Outerwears Pre-Filter is universal and can slip over the air filter. If you know it is going to be awful dusty, put it over your air filter. It will save the air filter and keep it clean. This is very handy for events that are two days. We stock all products discussed and can be purchased on our online store!! Remember, a dusty face means a dirty filter! More Posts Back To Blog Page

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Pre Race Rituals

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Pre Race Rituals How many of you follow a specific routine before a race? It could be the time and what you eat, stretching or warming up, supplements, getting pumped up or trying to chill out. To ensure you are preforming about your best, there is certain things I feel like everyone should be doing. First off, EAT!! If you do not have a heart rate monitor to track the race, just know burning 1,500-2,000 calories in one race is very realistic. Lack of eating fails to fuel your body. Some people have a tough time trying to figure out what they can eat, so just play with it but never go without eating, ever! On race day, I get up earlier than most to make sure I get a good breakfast. If it is a NEPG, I will continue to snack up to 45 minutes before. In between tests, I like to eat fresh fruit, fruit bars, or fruit snacks. If I let my blood sugar get low, I feel it and I can not ride well in that condition. At a harescrabmle, I always try to eat in between practice and the race plus a big breakfast. Next up, stretching and a warm up. This is super important in general but more important for races that do not allow practice. Walk around and get your blood moving. Then stretch some. The beforehand stretching does not need to be holding stretches for time. Its more of a fast-pace type stretch. Do some hand eye coordination warm ups, like throw a bottle in the air and catch it. As it gets closer to race time, try to get your heart rate up. I like to ride a stationary bike to do this. If you do not have one, be creative! Jumping jacks, high knees, anything that makes you breathe harder. By doing these things, it helps make sure your “warm up” is not during the first few miles of the race. Being pumped up or chilled out really depends on your personality and how both affect you. These days, for me, being chilled out is the most beneficial. I avoid negative thoughts and scare the nerves off. Relaxed but ready. Lastly, supplements. In one of the most physical demanding sports, it is crucial to provide yourself with the proper nutrients. With that being said, if you are interested in supplements that go hand-n-hand with dirt bikes, I highly recommend Ryno Power. I have been using Ryno Power for 3 years. I have tried all of their products and using them on race day is an absolute must for me. When I fail to not take Ryno Power, I notice it…IT IS THAT GOOD! With Ryno Power Supplements, you know what you are getting, no additives, no artificial flavors, no fillers, no aspartame, and no creatine! On race day, I take the electrolytes, endurance, carbo-fuel, and motivation before the race. After, I take recovery. The electrolytes pills are important because it contains Potassium, Calcium, Magnesium, and antioxidants to replenish what is used when you exercise. A.KA. – Leg cramp preventative and minimizes heat fatigue. The endurance pills eliminate lactic acid build up by increasing the VO2 to get more oxygen to the muscles. It will also help extend anaerobic threshold. Pretty much, you will last longer and it helps with arm pump. The** *carbo-fuel*** is a tasteless powder that fuels your body. It helps you sustain energy by loading up on complex carbs. It can also help replenish Glucose levels. Motivation is similar to a preworkout. I usually use this before a race but if I am really dragging, I will break out the Gladiator. Motivation enhances the mental and physical performance with an all-natural formula. Let’s just say, it gets you ready to rock-n-roll without a horrific crash and sustained energy! The Gladiator is an explosive preworkout. Fuels you with ample amount of energy without a crash. I enjoy taking it before a gym workout. The recovery pills contain 12 amino acids to help get your body back recovered. Another great product Ryno Power makes is Hydration Fuel, it keeps you charging for hours in the dead heat of the summer. It is rich in nutrients, electrolytes, BCAA’s, Glutamine, Carbohydrates to keep you going without dehydration and lack of nutrients fatigue. A new product, Mana Bar, rich in superfoods with a great taste. It is the perfect snack on race day to energize. The best part is, Mana Bar is a Ryno Power product which means no bad stuff! Featuring quality ingredients: Organic Honey, Organic Peanut Butter, Organic Sugar, Organic Almond Butter, Flaxseeds, Chia Seeds, Quinoa, Gluten-Free Rolled Oats, and Himalayan Pink Salt. Plus, it is delicious. As you can see, I am a Ryno Power fan and believer. Their website is loaded with more information than I stated and I can give more insight also! TRY RYNO POWER AND YOU WILL NOT REGRET IT!! Pretty much, that is what my pre-race rituals look like. Nothing too crazy but if I skip something, I notice it during the race. So, figure out what works for you and stick to it! More Posts Back To Blog Page

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