Menu

573-796-8685

Business Hours

Sunday Closed
Monday 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM
Tuesday 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM
Wednesday 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM
Thursday 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM
Friday 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM
Saturday Closed

dirt bike tech tip

Wrench Tip Wednesday: Drowning a bike in water

Leave a Comment / Uncategorized /

Wrench Tip Wednesday: Drowning a bike in water If you raced Ironman GNCC, then you know what this is about! Rule #1: CHOOSE A BETTER LINE! Yep, it is that easy! Hahah, just kidding! Sometimes it’s hard to tell how deep the hole really is when everything else prior was 2 inches deep and then one wrong line sent you 3 foot deep. Or even with creek crossings and rolling water, the current could push you over. I’ve seen that happen before. What should you do if you go for a swim on your dirt bike? If it is a quick submerge there is a chance the bike might still start. But a hot engine and cool water never mix. First, I would try to start it. If it does not start, pull the spark plug and flip the bike upside down. Kick the engine over. This helps push any water out of the top end. Flip it back over and install a sparkplug. If you do not have a spare with you, dry off the one you pulled out. Keep your fingers crossed that it starts otherwise you will be pushing the bike back. Be sure to change the air filter and oil once you get back. Also, pull your pipe off and dump the water out of it. What if the bike does not start and needs to be pushed or towed back? Load up and head home. The process is similar as above. Clean the bike! Take off the plastics and everything and get rid of the mud and dirt so it does not end up in places it shouldn’t! Take the spark plug out, flip upside down, and turn the engine over. Drain the oil and replace it a few times. Change the air filter. The float bowl could also be filled with water so check that. In extreme cases, it would not hurt to go ahead and replace the exhaust packing. With fresh oil, spark plug, and air filter installed go ahead and start the bike. Oh no! It still does not start; this could mean a complete engine rebuild may be needed. It all really depends how much water got in it. It is also not a bad idea to dielectric grease all connectors so they do not get corroded. While you’re at that, keep in mind all the grease on your bearings probably washed away too. Check your wheel, swingarm, and linkage bearings and make sure they are not rusty or loose. If still good, put more grease on them! Don’t fret if your mechanic skills are not up to par, take it to a local shop and let them dig into it. A good rule of thumb, always be honest about what has happened to the bike even if it is embarrassing, not just referring to the bike going swimming any instant something mechanical fails, tell the story. It helps the mechanic understand what has happened and why it happened. More Posts Back To Blog Page

Wrench Tip Wednesday: Drowning a bike in water Read More »

BLEED YOUR BRAKES – USE GOOD BRAKE FLUID

Leave a Comment / Uncategorized /

BLEED YOUR BRAKES – USE GOOD BRAKE FLUID Alright guys, if y’all watched my Wrench Tip video on Facebook or Instagram yesterday, you know one of my biggest pet peeves is when people complain about losing their brakes but did nothing to prevent the problem. Even better, if you know you are hard on brakes, prepare for it. I went through a phase where I was losing my brakes in a 35-minute race! LIKE WHAT?!?!! There are not many things that are scarier than the first moment you realize you have no brakes. It was 5 years ago when I was having this issue, so back in my ultra-beginner days, I had no idea what to do! As a result, I ran into a dirt pile, forgot how to use what little skill I had, and lost the race. That’s enough to make a little girl angry! I had a problem and it needed fixed! Fluid, brake pads, and rotors all contribute to this but for now we are going to hit on the fluid. The first thing we did was bleeding my brakes after every single race. During a MORE race weekend, I would even do it again Saturday night after racing so I was set up for Sunday! That alone made my problem better. When I started traveling further to races, it got a bit more serious. I switched to what I like to call liquid gold, Castrol React SRF Racing brake fluid, it comes in a 1L jug and is around $90. I look at it as the bigger picture, if I am going to travel 10+ hours to race, I am going to do what I can to prevent as many problems as possible. This brake fluid is cheaper than not finishing or struggling to finish. When you look into purchasing brake fluid, do your homework! Each bottle of brake fluid has the wet boiling point listed on it. Some even state the dry boiling point. All that we care about is the wet, because as soon as you open the bottle, moisture gets in it and therefore it is now “wet”. So, do not be fooled by the dry boiling points. We keep these brake fluids on the shelf: Castrol React SRF Racing: 518 *F wet boiling point Motul RBF 660: 399*F wet boiling point Maxima Racing: 399*F wet boiling point Lucas Synthetic: 116*F wet boiling point All of these vary in price. Remember, focus on what works and not what is the cheapest. Remember, riding your brakes in “overtime” is not worth it. How to know they need to be bled: If you are a serious racer, do it after every race. Braking power has reduced Inconsistent braking The lever feels spongy Pro tip: If it is hot outside, everything on your bike is that much hotter, including your brakes, which means they will boil faster! If you boil your brakes, the boiling temperature is reduced so that is why it is important to bleed them! More Posts Back To Blog Page

BLEED YOUR BRAKES – USE GOOD BRAKE FLUID Read More »

Scroll to Top