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Tayler’s Beta 200 Race Bike Build

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If you spend a lot of time at Bonecutter Off Road or around my family and I, you will hear the following statement often! When purchasing a new bike off the showroom floor with a racing intent or even the die-hard weekend warrior, a lot of things should be done to said bike to make it “ready”. This goes for all different brands of dirt bikes; no bike comes off the floor completely ready to ride. With that being said, a key secret to successful bike setup is knowing when to start riding and stop tuning. My new bike is a 2024 Beta 200 Race Edition. Most of the things done was what we felt like was necessary, but also personal preference. I have had many bikes over the years and this one is by far my favorite build. I absolutely love seeing a bike come together with all the little details and color choices. As soon as the bike arrived to the Bonecutter Headquarters, the first thing done was removing plastics, tank, and exhaust. I like to call it putting a new bike in a box! With a new bike, I recommend springing the suspension for your weight, but no other changes until you have tested it out. This is based off your weight, your correct weight not a fantasy number. Suspension can make or break an opinion on how a dirt bike feels. Not everyone needs the KYB (closed chambered forks). Being aware of that is crucial. The RR or X-pro models with open chambered forks work really well. If you are unsure about which forks would be better for you, we strive to assist our customers with making that decision. With that being said, I dropped my forks and shock off at JDP Suspension to get the correct springs and some valving done. Jay has done both my 200’s and honestly I am super impressed with his work. The bike stays straight and handles the rough GNCC chop like a champ! Next order of business was removing the linkage and swingarm to grease ‘em up. Most manufactures do not use a lot of grease on their bearings in the factory. By addressing this when the bike is new, the life of the bearings is prolonged. I was super impressed with how much grease was on this bike from the factory! A lot more than I have seen in recent years with other manufactures. There are times when Loctite is necessary and times when anti seize is necessary. Anti seize was applied to the chain adjusters and brake pins, helping to ensure upon removal, down the road, they would not strip. On the engine mount bolts, anti seize was applied to the bolt and Loctite on the nuts. Another crucial place for anti seize is on the bolts holding the plastics on, especially the tank ones. Strip out the tank and that’s no good. I also went ahead and changed the brake pins to hex head pins so it is less likely to strip out and way easier to remove. A couple “pro tips”: On the rear brake caliper, the brake line can be knocked loose, to help this issue, it is tightened to the inside and then wire tied. The front brake line is also prone to loosen up and get into the spokes which can destroy the brake line. It is very important to watch this and keep the fork guard clamp tight and position it accordingly. We also wrap gorilla tape around this area for extra protection. We also wire tie the rear spokes just incase of breaking them. If you do break it, and it is wire tied, it will prevent it from getting down in your caliper and rotors. On the rear, I run a solid rear rotor. I am hard on brakes and this helps with the overheating issue. I also run Castrol Brake fluid in my brake and clutch systems. The heat rating on it very high so it doesn’t boil over real quick! I use DP brake pads as well and have had great luck with them. I run Fasst Company rear brake clevis and return spring as extra insurance for keeping my rear brakes working well! All Beta’s are able to dual sport. In return, they come with extra wires to make that possible. My bikes are considered race bikes, so the wiring for the lights, horns, etc are unnecessary to me. My map switch is no longer on tank but is on the handlebars. All the wires and CDI were rerouted to the right side of the bike for extra protection and less likely to receive excessive water damage. Make sure the CDI is pointed downward. I install a TPS removal plug as well to clean it up too. In Missouri, the stock jetting is usually good. So, we leave that alone until there is an issue. From factory, the carb vent tubes are located at the bottom of the bike. This can allow dirt, sand, or water to be sucked up. Go ahead and prevent this, a carb vent kit is installed, relocating the vents to under the seat. For under $25, you will be saving yourself a lot of future wear and tear. Time to address the cooling situation. Never in my life have I overheated a Beta two stroke. The thermostat located in the cooling hoses is prone to leaking. Before it is a problem, a Samco hose kit is installed. This deletes the thermostat and also keeps the bike cooler. Samco hoses are also thicker than stock! The OEM coolant is removed and replaced with Engine Ice. We keep Engine Ice on hand, so it keeps it simple. I put a Funnelweb Air filter in. I choose Funnelweb because it is simply the best in dust and mud races. I trust it. REMEMBER, a THICK bead of grease is applied around the rim along with filter oil applied to the filter. This is

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Honest Review on the 2024 Beta 200 Race Edition

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I finally got to test out a newer Beta 200! I have spent the last couple years on a four stroke and I have been itched to get my hands on a two stroke again! I finally decided to dive back in and test out a two stroke. To first make sure I liked the bike, I rode it completely stock and tried to focus on the engine characteristics. I was super impressed. It had a strong hit off of the bottom and had great top speed as well. The 200 can be ridden on the pipe and it is also luggable. Since my first impressions were liking the bike, I decided to get it set up to race! First thing I did was send my suspension off to JDP in Ohio. He turned it around ridiculously quick! After that we tore the bike to the frame. We installed a race wire harness to remove all the extra wires and components we don’t need. Next thing we did was install a Samco hose kit to delete the thermostat. We added wire tie to a couple things, greased bearings, Loctite important components, anti-seize bolts, and changed out the stock brake fluid to liquid gold (Castrol Brake Fluid). The last thing we did was install guards; Bullet Proof Designs radiator guards and rear disc guard, Eline By AXP Skid plate, BRP chain block, Flexx Bars, Countershox, Enduro Engineering flags, Bib Mousses, and Dunlop tires. After doing all of this, it was time to do some final testing before the first race. With a couple turns on clickers, my JDP suspension felt fantastic. The bike stays straight and is predicable. I adjusted to the bike pretty quick, In one race and 2 days of trail riding, I put 9 hours on the bike. The more I rode it the better it felt and I put it through the test. Hard packed Missouri dirt, creek bottoms, sand tracks, massive moon rocks, hard enduro, turn and burn trails…. It performed better than I could ask for no matter what I asked of it. I felt like I could do more things on this bike than I could on any other. The bottom line is, this bike can do anything you ask of it with very little work to set it up. 10/10 on looks, 10/10 on performance, 10/10 on FUN!

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Top 5 Things Tayler Would put on a Beta 250 Race Edition

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When purchasing a new bike, they are not necessarily ready to race off the showroom floor. If I was buying a brand new Beta 250 Race Edition, here are the top 5 things I would do right away to it. First off, I would put a separate kill and start button on and remove the other switches that are not necessary. I do this by installing the Beta Race Harness (can be found on our online store). For me, I like to have my start button on the left side. It makes it easier on my small hands for dead engine starts. I would also get rid of the speedo and the speedo cable because that is something else for me to break. The horn will be removed, the brake light wire, and the headlight as well. Since the speedo is removed, I install a hour meter so I can keep track of my hours and keep up on maintenance. Next up is changing the brake pins to a hex style head and eliminate the Allen headed ones. It is easy to strip the Allen heads and not always convenient to work with. We keep the Hex Pin set in stock! The third thing I would do is a seat cover. A rib style seat cover keeps me in place better than the factory ones. It also provides better grip. Over the years, the seat foams have gotten softer so I personally would not do a seat foam. Plus, it is a good reason to stand up more!! Next up is a Samco hose kit. The hose kit, deletes the thermostat, will keep the bike cooler, and the silicone hoses are thicker than stock! We keep these on the shelves. Lastly, guards! I run the basic amount. I use Enduro Engineering flag style hand guards, Eline Skid plate, Bulletproof Designs rear disc guard , swingarm guard, and radiator guards. I will also go ahead and upgrade the chain block to either a BRP or TM Designworks (both are great options). We keep all these products mentioned above in stock! They are available in store or on our online store.

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2023 Beta 300 Race Edition Review

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We hosted a Beta demo day in early December. It was a grand opportunity to test out the new 2023 Beta 300 Race Edition! Updates to the 2023 3 hundo Race Edition include: KYB REAR SHOCK ! – This is HUGE. Slimmer radiator shrouds – Gives the bike a sleeker look and improves aerodynamics. Slightly different cylinder, head, and power valve than the standard RR. This provides more compression and power. We rode this bike completely stock, exactly how it comes off of the showroom floor. My first impression was how GOOD the stock suspension was. The KYB shock is phenomenal. I have been riding Beta’s for the last 7 years and I can personally say with a few clicker adjustments the stock suspension is great. I would feel completely comfortable going straight to a race on it. The power was snappy and pulled great out of corners. It wanted to be ridden hard but still keeps true to Beta’s “Rideability” . I can’t write a review without talking about how beautiful Beta’s are. Every year, they find a way to give it that “DAMN” factor. Please excuse me while I wipe off my drool. Every year Beta continues to fine-tune and improve their bikes. Everyone here at the dealership is super impressed with the entire 2023 lineup.

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GNCC Race Bike Build

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GNCC Race Bike Build Do bikes come ready to race off the showroom floor? My answer is no. This is not limited to Beta or Sherco, it goes for all different brands of dirt bikes; no bike comes off the floor completely ready to ride. With that being said, a key secret to successful bike setup is knowing when to start riding and stop tuning. The featured bike in this blog is a Beta 250 Race Edition. The first step to a race bike build, is to stripe it to the frame. Literally. Everything comes off, tank, plastics, exhaust, speedo, horn, etc.. On my bikes, we install the race wire harness. It removes all the extra wires used for the lights and cleans up the harness. Basically, everything unnecessary comes off. All the wires and CDI were rerouted to the right side of the bike for extra protection and less likely to receive excessive water damage. Make sure the CDI is pointed downward. Next order of business was removing the linkage and swingarm to grease ‘em up. Most manufactures do not use a lot of grease on their bearings in the factory. By addressing this when the bike is new, the life of the bearings is prolonged. A massive benefit of buying a new bike from us is we do this in a Pre-Delivery Inspection as a bonus to our customers at no extra charge. There are times when Loctite is necessary and times when anti seize/grease is necessary. Red grease was applied to the chain adjusters and brake pins, helping to ensure upon removal, down the road, they would not strip. On the engine mount bolts, red grease was applied to the bolt and Loctite on the nuts. Another crucial place for anti seize is on the bolts holding the plastics on, especially the tank ones. Strip out the tank and that’s no good. A couple “pro tips”: On the rear brake caliper, the brake line can be knocked loose, to help this issue, it is tightened to the inside and then wire tied. The front brake line is also prone to loosen up and get into the spokes which can destroy the brake line. It is very important to watch this and keep the fork guard clamp tight and position it accordingly. To help ensure it stays put, we wire tied the clamp. Extra rubber hose was attached to the brake line for extra protection on common wear areas. On the rear brake master cylinder, we flipped the pin around for easier removal. In Missouri, the stock jetting is usually good. So, we leave that alone until there is an issue. From factory, the carb vent tubes are located at the bottom of the bike. This can allow dirt, sand, or water to be sucked up. Go ahead and prevent this, a carb vent kit is installed, relocating the vents to under the seat. For under $25, you will be saving yourself a lot of future wear and tear. Rerouting the vent hoses, also helps with prevent a throttle sticking wide open from sucking up dirt. Time to address the cooling situation. Never in my life have I overheated a Beta two stroke. The thermostat located in the cooling hoses is pronged to leaking. Before it is a problem, a Boano hose kit is installed. This deletes the thermostat and also keeps the bike cooler. Samco hoses are also a great brand. The OEM coolant is removed and replaced with Engine Ice. We do this because when in a pinch it can be mixed with water unlike many other brands. We keep Engine Ice on hand, so it keeps it simple. For added insurance, we install a fuel filter on the bike. It’s cheap so why would you not do that. We do add it to all new two strokes that we sell for another added bonus of buying new bikes from us. Time to install the air filter. REMEMBER, a THICK bead of grease is applied around the rim along with filter oil applied to the filter. This is a MUST every time an air filter is installed. Otherwise, the filter is not properly sealed and will allow dirt in the carb, which may result in premature engine issues. Time to install guards using blue Loctite. In the off road world, guards are pretty important. While the Loctite is out, be sure to Loctite the frame to subframe bolts and the seat bolts. For the rear disc protection, I chose a blue Bullet Proof Designs guard. In the past, I have changed the OEM chain guide for an aftermarket one but the 2022 Race Editions come with a decently thick one so I will use the stock one for awhile. When I do upgrade, BRP is the way to go. The tank vent tube is ran all the way into the skid plate. We cut the cooling line shorter so it is not running into the skid plate otherwise you will not know you leaked coolant in the skid plate. This is crucial for the tank vent tube because it could vapor lock or wash out your bearings if not routed correctly. Beta does come with a skid plate but I upgrade to a thicker one. I use the Eline carbon fiber skid plate paired with an Obie link guard. Bullet Proof Designs radiator guards are installed for radiator protection. I usually, do not run the stock exhaust and save it for when it is time to resell the bike. I run a FMF Fatty and FMF 2.1 silencer. After installing the exhaust system, install zip ties around the seal between the silencer and the header to prevent oil seepage. One item that I highly recommend on all brands of bikes is a Enduro Engineering slave cylinder guard! It saves your case and is better than the stock one! Guards are important, but so are the things I think I cannot live without! First up, Fasst

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Parts & Guards Used on Tayler’s Race Bike

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Parts & Guards Used on Tayler’s Race Bike I use what works. I trust the brands that work and help me perform at my best. With that being said, below is what my bike set up looks like! Let’s start with the handle bar area! I’ve been using Fasst Company Flexx Bars for four years now. They get rid of the rigid feel that standard bars have. With the added comfort, perfect bend for me, and help rid of some vibration, I refuse to go without. It’s uncomfortable riding without Flexx Bars. ARC levers are impossible to brake, help my small hands grab and feel the lever better, and the melmon version allows for extra flex in the lever. ODI Emig grips feel like a hard grip but ultimately do not make my hands/wrists hurt. I never get blisters. ODI Emig grips are also lock on which means NO MORE SPINNING GRIPS! For hand guards, I use Enduro Engineering full wraps and threaded bar end inserts. Threaded bar end inserts help keep the handguards in place after a wreck. Next up, exhausts! I take the OEM exhaust off to save for when I resell the bike. I choose to put a FMF Fatty on paired with FMF Powercore 2.1. It looks so rad on the bike but improves the performance of the bike. What about protection? As the years go on, I put the bare minimum needed for off road racing on. I upgrade the skid plate to Eline carbon fiber and an Obie linkage guard. I use Bullet Proof Designs radiator guards and rear disc guard. Some do not see the importance of a rear disc guard, but you are more likely to bend a rotor than you are to get a rock stuck in between it and the guard. I also upgrade from the OEM chain guide to a thicker one made by BRP. The case saver is upgraded to Enduro Engineering for better protection and easier cleaning. Plus, the handguards mentioned above. That’s it. I feel my most stable on the bike when using Fasst Company’s Impact Peg. The pegs are wider than OEM pegs and isolate the cleat from touching metal to metal making them absorb more vibration. The Impact Moto Peg also has the perfect tooth combo, I can remove my foot if I need to and not get “stuck”. I use the stock Beta seat foam; I actually prefer the firmness compared to a soft foam. I ditch the OEM cover and put a gripper cover on. Bike Graphix does all my graphic kits. They are the only company who I have found that has true Beta Red not Honda red! Bike Graphix also uses good quality material and has super-fast turnaround. My current tire set up is Dunlop MX33 on the front and rear. I use Michelin Bib Mousses. They make the tires not bounce as much on the rocks and absorb some of the bigger impacts. Plus, that means no flats ever! I get my suspension set up for me to handle 90% of the terrain I ride. I get the proper springs for my weight and have the valving tweaked to meet my needs. I am 5’2. I usually have my bikes lowered an inch but I am going to try to trust my skills and balance and not do that anymore. I keep the gearing stock. I adjust the powervalve to flush with the case and majority of the time, keep the stock jetting. I upgrade the stock cooling hoses to Samco or Boano to keep the bike cooler and eliminate the thermostat. The bike is designed a certain way so to make all this wild mods are not necessary for most riders. All of that gives me the best-looking bike, the best riding bike, and the most fun bike! More Posts Back To Blog Page

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The Off Season

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The Off Season As you may or may not have noticed, the blog has been a little quiet lately. If you follow me on Instagram or Facebook, you know I have been pretty busy this off season. Below, you will find what exactly I have been up to! The last time I raced was November 27! IT HAS BEEN A LONG TIME! My focus this off season has been regaining full strength in my upper body / shoulder after having surgery on it back in May. The other focus has been riding AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE. That’s the vague version. My bad a** van was completed by Enduro Van back in October. I have set up to handle lots of traveling and hauling my dirt bikes. It gives me the opportunity to travel more than ever and I am stoked about that! Early December, I took a two-week riding adventure. I started out in Georgia at V3 Off Road, playing in the sand and being treated like family. After a few days there, I headed out to South Carolina and met up with a fellow Beta dealer, Redline Motorsports. We rode at his property the first day and that was EPIC! The terrain was quite a bit different for the typical South Carolina stuff I have ridden. It had rocks, hilly, bamboo trees, roots, clay, sandy dirt, basically all the goods. The next day, we checked out GTR Complex. GTR is my cup of tea, FULL of sand! The trails there are a combo of super-fast and super tight, perfect training. The motocross track was straight sand and was fun to rip around. After I got done there, I headed to Allie & Tayla Jones-Spurgeon’s place. My first day there, I put my full focus on the turn track, perfecting every corner. The next day, I rode with Tayla. If you do not know Tayla Jones, she is one of the top women racer’s in the country.. Heck, in the world! We rode on a section of a motocross track and did 20-minute motos. I rode my butt off. Super intense but lots of fun. After we finished, Allie and Tayla took me to downtown Greenville so I could have “fun”. It was super cool and worth checking out if you are in the area! The following day, I did more skill drills. At this point in the trip, I did not know what to do next. I wanted more sand riding for sure so I decided to go back to GTR Complex. That day, I shaved 6 minutes off each lap from when I was there over the weekend. The skill drills and getting comfortable on my bike again was HUGE! I stayed there for two days and continued working. By that time, I had ridden 11 days straight and felt like I could use a rest day. So, I decided to end my trip by going to Florida to hang out with my great friends, Broc & Lindsey French. It was nice to see them. We checked out Panama City Beach, I love the ocean, and participated in a golf cart Christmas parade. Super cool experience! It was now time for me to head home, 14-hour drive. I did the bulk of it in one day and decided to sleep about 5 hours from home. I had the next day off also so when I did get back home, guess what I did?! I rode some more before I returned to work to play catch up! This trip was EPIC! This brings us to Christmas week. I rode all weekend but stayed local. New Year’s Eve, brought another riding trip! I started out in Oklahoma for a day. My day got cut pretty short after a gnarly crash. My front end was twisted and my body did not feel pleasant. Ended up with some bruised ribs and lots of soreness. I decided to suck it up and still head further south to Conroe, TX, north of Houston, to check out 3 Palm’s Action Sports. That place is by far my favorite one I have been too in the last year. Sandy dirt, multiple tracks, and lots of fun! Best part, it was 86 degrees which was far better than the 30’s and snow back in Missouri that weekend. When I got back from that trip, I decided I would spend riding in January within two hours of home… that did not even last a week. The following weekend I went back to Oklahoma to ride some motocross for a day and then went back home that evening and headed to St Joe the following day. St Joe involved a combo of motos and trail riding. It was a good time and 3.5 hours of ride time. This past weekend, I took another trip to Oklahoma to ride with some great friends and then went to Kansas for sand riding the following day. We had lots of fun and had improvements on the bike! That is basically as far as the riding goes. Being 26 days out from race season, bikes are now being prepped and I plan on hitting a race sometime in the next 3 weeks to knock the rust off. Riding, is only part of the off-season prep, as I mentioned above, I have been working on building strength. I train at the gym, 5 days a week, following a program I written for myself. I am almost to 100% full upper body strength before injury. I can squat and deadlift more than I weigh. I have not been ignoring muscles imbalances, trying to give me the best chance against injury prevention. I continue to push forward in every way I can, keeping my goals in mind and keeping the fire lit inside. I have also been training others to help them reach their goals with guidance and the extra push! As race season closes in, I am the fittest I have ever been, I

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AMA National Harescramble Stillwater 500 & Gobbler Getter National Enduro

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AMA National Harescramble Stillwater 500 & Gobbler Getter National Enduro 0 to 100 is the best way to describe last weekend. The way I do things isn’t for the soft…. Two things I wanted to do before the end of the season was race a harescramble and an enduro to see where my physical capabilities are at. Why not do both in one weekend and call it a test? Friday night I booked it to Stillwater, OK after work to race the AMA East vs West National Harescramble. I signed up for the 8AM race to get done and on the road sooner. It was also a longer race than the Pro/A/B women’s race lol. The flyer had it advertised as a 2.5 hour and I was concerned about that. During the rider’s meeting they announced they would do it off of the east coast rules, making it a 2 hour! Thank goodness. I had an ok start. The first few miles was a lot of battling and other people laying it over. The trail had a great combo of tight/technical and fast wide open. It was my cup of tea! One particular section was a downhill drop off. I took a bad line and endoed. Really amazed I even saved it but I managed to do so. After the first lap, I was in 3rd. I made a pass for 2nd and held it almost until the end of my last lap. Conditions were PRIMO. This was my first time racing there and it was a super fun trail! I finished 3rd and felt really good. After the race, it was a LOAD AS FAST AS POSSIBLE! I rinsed my bike a little to rid of some of that glorious red Oklahoma dirt. I was loaded up and ready to roll by 11:30 to start the 11 hour trek to Alabama for the final NEPG. The first 8 hours went fast, the last three were BRUTAL! Thankful for all my friends that called me to keep me awake! We arrived around midnight. One of the best parts about my van is, I can park and go to sleep with no setting up. I slept great Saturday night and felt ready to rock at 6AM. The Gobbler Getter is always a favorite of mine! It’s been a full year since I’ve wiggled between tight, turny trees, I almost forgot how fun that is, and how much of a sprint it is. The first test flowed great and was fun, not too choppy and a good mix of tight and fast. Test two was a little tighter and longer. Test 3 and 4 suited what I like to ride well! There were lots of random sand wash sections, like 10 of them! Lots of fast and wide open too with some hill climbs. Just a great mix and even better flow. Test 5 was a bit more technical but still a fun one. It was a 10 mile section and with 3 miles left, I started to really wear down. I kept telling myself, the faster I do this, the faster I can be done. I finally finished and got back to the pits. I was toast and out of it. Billy Jack walks over if I want steak or chicken and I said both and both is what I got! It brought me back to life to start the 11 hour drive back home. I finished 7th out of 10 in Women’s Elite. It was great to be back at the enduros after being injured all year! Again, I appreciate my friends who kept me awake on the way back home. I was ready to sleep 20 minutes into the drive lol. I raced 75 miles this weekend… 27 hours of drive time, TWO NATIONAL RACES, and a solo road trip… EPIC Thanks to all the rad people helping me do epic shit. A big thanks to my dad helping me get my bike put together and ready to rock! More Posts Back To Blog Page

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MY FIRST RACE IN 10 MONTHS

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MY FIRST RACE IN 10 MONTHS I FINALLY GOT TO RACE! I haven’t raced since mid-November 2020, or even ridden since January 2021. I am stoked! The doctor has said I am healed and released to start riding again but supposed to “take it easy”. My first ride back was like I hadn’t been off the bike for 8 months. It was freaking great!! Each time, I am making less mistakes, my speed is faster than before and I feel great. With all of that in mind, I felt like I could handle the 35-minute Ladies A race. So, I lined up. Saturday morning, I was a big ball of excitement. To burn off some energy, I pedaled for 30 minutes. I really needed to chill out lol. I was not nervous just so ready! Practice rolled around and I did two laps. This was the first time I had ridden in the woods; I have only been practicing on our moto track. I did not have any meltdowns and wasn’t scared of trees or anything. The track was freaking sick! It had fast field blasts, fast wood sections, and handlebar tight turny sections. It was great and I was ready to rip!! During the 65 race, the rain started to come down. I was pretty bummed because I didn’t know if it was smart for me to race with conditions being sketchy when the doctor said to “take it easy”. I wanted to race so bad, so I said screw it. The rain finished up 10 minutes before the ladies race and did not rain at all. Mother Nature knew I needed to ride! I grabbed the holeshot and took it easy for the first few laps, trying to judge the slickness. By mid-race, conditions were EPIC! Ruts were forming and the dirt was tacky. My pace significantly increased. On my second to last lap, I had a really close call. In one of the wood sections, it was open, fast, and allowed for 4th gear pinned. It was sick. My shoulder was getting sore at this point in the race and I couldn’t maneuver the bike as well. There was a very slight turn in this section and if you continue going straight, it would be smash city into a huge tree. I literally thought I was going to hit it, my brakes did not slow me enough and my body could barely get the bike to miss it. BUT I did! That incident was enough for me to chill out on the last lap and just finish. I ended up 1st. I had an absolute blast. It is hard to find the right words with how it felt to be back out there again. I have the racing bug like I did when I first started racing. I am ready to get fully back and race AS MUCH AS I POSSIBLY CAN! More Posts Back To Blog Page

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Tayler’s Bike Set Up

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Tayler’s Bike Set Up Everyone is unique. I trust the brands that work and help me perform at my best. So, what does my bike set up look like? Let’s start with the handle bar area! I’ve been using Fasst Company Flexx Bars for three years now. They get rid of the rigid feel that standard bars have. With the added comfort, perfect bend for me, and help rid of some vibration, I refuse to go without. ARC levers are impossible to brake, help my small hands grab and feel the lever better, and the melmon version allows for extra flex in the lever. ODI Emig grips feel like a hard grip but ultimately do not make my hands/wrists hurt. I never get blisters. ODI Emig grips are also lock on which means NO MORE SPINNING GRIPS! For hand guards, I use Enduro Engineering full wraps. Next up, exhausts! I take the OEM exhaust off to save for when I resell the bike. I choose to put a FMF Fatty on paired with FMF Powercore 2.1. What about protection? As the years go on, I put the bare minimum needed for off road racing on. I upgrade the skid plate to Eline carbon fiber and an Obie linkage guard. I use Bullet Proof Designs radiator guards and rear disc guard. Some do not see the importance of a rear disc guard, but you are more likely to bend a rotor than you are to get a rock stuck in between it and the guard. I also upgrade from the OEM chain guide to a thicker one made by BRP. The case saver is upgraded to Enduro Engineering for better protection and easier cleaning. Plus, the handguards mentioned above. That’s it. I feel my most stable on the bike when using Fasst Company’s Impact Peg. The pegs are wider than OEM pegs and isolate the cleat from touching metal to metal making them absorb more vibration. The Impact Moto Peg also has the perfect tooth combo, I can remove my foot if I need to and not get “stuck”. I use the stock Beta seat foam; I actually prefer the firmness compared to a soft foam. I ditch the OEM cover and put a Seat Concepts 2.0 race ribbed seat cover on. Bike Graphix does all my graphic kits. They are the only company who I have found that has true Beta Red not Honda red! My current tire set up is Dunlop MX33 on the rear and a Bridgestone M59 on the front. I use Michelin Bib Mousses. They make the tires not bounce as much on the rocks and absorb some of the bigger impacts. Plus, that means no flats ever! I get my suspension set up for me to handle 90% of the terrain I ride. I get the proper springs for my weight and have the valving tweaked to meet my needs. I am 5’2 and do currently lower my bikes 1 inch. I keep the gearing stock. I adjust the powervalve to flush with the case and majority of the time, keep the stock jetting. I upgrade the stock cooling hoses to Samco or Boano to keep the bike cooler and eliminate the thermostat. The bike is designed a certain way so to make all this wild mods are not necessary for most rider’s. All of that gives me the best-looking bike, the best riding bike, and the most fun bike!   More Posts Back To Blog Page

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