tech tip

Wrench Tip Wednesday: Installing Handguards Being an off road rider usually means you will see handguards on the dirt bike. But why is that? Obviously, to protect. Handguards keep your hands and levers safe on the trails, through the trees, down the creeks, anywhere you might go on a dirt bike. I am an off road rider, so handguards are an absolute must! I prefer full wrap around ones and most do. The following describes how to install full wrap around handguards. Before installing, choose which style you want! For the last five years, I have used Enduro Engineering handguards and deflectors. I like the way they look and the durability. But there are so many options out there! Start off by trimming the end of the grips off with a razor blade. This allows the inserts to go into the bars. For bar inserts, threaded ones work best! This helps handguards stay in place even during the craziest wrecks. Bullet Proof Designs or SRT both make threaded inserts. If your bars have not been previously threaded, you will need to use the tap to thread the bars. After that is finished, put the bolt through the indicated place on the handguard, insert into the tap, and start threading. Do not tighten all the way down yet. Next up, install the handguard clamps. Enduro Engineering sells bar mounts also. If you run Flexx Bars, you will need the special mounts for those bars. Do not place the mounts where any wires or cables run. After the mounts are installed, attach the hand guard at the opposite end where it is currently unattached. Tighten this end all the way down. Go back to the grip side and tighten that down. Install the deflectors, which just screw on to the metal handguards. All finished! Do another check to make sure the handguards are not pinching any cables or wires. Be sure to turn the bars right and left to ensure nothing unpredicted becomes pinched during your next ride! More Posts Back To Blog Page

Keep Calm & Work on Your Dirt Bike! Have you been told to stay home? Sounds like it is the perfect time to do some much needed maintenance to your dirt bike! For starters, is the dirt bike clean? Like really clean? No – OK well give it a good scrub. In this particular scenario, I recommend going all out! Wash it, scrub it, remove plastics, tank, scrub some more. Remove the air filter and install the filter box plug then clean the air box. Lay the bike on its side. Really focus on getting every spec of dirt off. You do have a lot of free time. When washing the bike, pay attention to anything that is loose or broke and take mental notes to take care of it. Before doing anything else, refer to your previous entries in the dirt bike diary. Compare current hours to the hours the bike was last worked on. This will give you an indicator of what the bike needs before it has issues at the next ride or race. Preventive maintenance is far cheaper in the long run. At this time, general maintenance is needed. Below is what I consider routine maintenance, should be done after every race and every other ride, give or take. Clean the air filter. Let it dry before reinstalling. When installing apply oil to the air filter and a thick bead of grease around the rim. If rim grease is failed to be put on, the filter will allow dirt into the carb and it will cause many pre-mature problems that could have been prevented. So, oil the filter well and don’t forget the thick bead of grease on the rim! Check the spark plug! This lets the mechanic know how the bike is running, too lean or too rich. Plus, changing or cleaning the plug helps reduce the chances of fouling a plug. Bleed the brakes! Losing the brakes is super scary and usually can be prevented. We always bleed our brakes for insurance. Inspect the brake pads and make sure they do not need to be replaced. Change the oil! Keeping clean, fresh oil in the bike helps prevent premature wear. For Beta, we recommend Motul Transoil or Motul 7100 10w-40. For Sherco, we recommend Bel Ray Thumper. We have found that these oils are excellent quality and last longer than most which equals less oil changes. If you ride a 4t, don’t forget to change the oil filter. Check the battery! Most electrical failures go back to a battery that is not charged, connections are corroded, or connections are loose. Just be sure to check that it is charged and has no lose connections. Loose connections can cause damage to the battery. Keeping an eye on the battery also helps know when it is getting weak and should be replaced. Keep the chain clean and lubed! But do not forget to check the chain and sprockets! Are your sprockets missing any teeth or starting to curl? What about the chain, has it seen better days? A chain breaking or derailing can be expensive and dangerous. It can’t always be prevented but you’ll be on the safer side if condition as well as the masterlink are checked. Check the coolant! It isn’t a great idea to start with coolant levels already low and risking the chances of overheating and bike failure. Remember, do not mix different brands. If coolant is low and you are unsure what is in it, you are better off to drain it and start fresh. If you run tubes in your tires, check the air pressure. Or go a safer route and run Bib Mousses! Check the spokes! Make sure they are not loose or broken. Be sure to not overtighten because it could result in them breaking during the next ride. Lastly, go around the entire bike and make sure everything is tight. While doing this, do a visual inspection and see if anything else needs attention. Like are the cables in good shape? Have any leaks? Check to make sure all bearings are in proper working order and not seized or loose. If in good condition, add grease to them. Make sure all bolts are tight, engine mount bolts, subframe bolts, frame bolts, axle nuts, bar mounts, etc… This is just a basic list. The number of hours on the bike ultimately depends on what all is required for the next ride, it could be top end time! Keeping up on routine maintenance sounds expensive but in the end it will for sure save you more time and money in the long run! Let’s be productive, get your dirt bikes in tip top shape, support local shops, and let’s ride! More Posts Back To Blog Page

Wrench Tip Wednesday: Snapping a Chain How many of you have ever had a chain break? Better yet, how many of you use a slave cylinder guard? If you have a chain break, it can be very expensive! How do you prevent breaking a chain? It can’t always be prevented, but be sure to do a pre-ride/race check every time. The chain needs to be lubed often anyway so just check while you are doing that. If the chain looks rusty or corroded, has a flat wear pattern on the top and bottom, and/or demonstrates easy side to side play, then it is time to replace the chain. Sometimes a chain within its service limits, breaks. It could happen for many reasons: Master link clip falls off A rock or stick gets stuck in the chain stretching it No good reason at all Or the best one yet, the pre-ride inspection was not done A rider may never have a chain break on them but for insurance, use a slave cylinder guard. If you do not and the chain snaps, it will break your slave cylinder and case. The sound of that is expensive! Not all the cost of parts but the labor costs too, it is not a difficult job but requires time. Enduro Engineering makes slave cylinder guards for both Beta and Sherco. Other good options include, Topar Racing, Force, and Beta Boano slave guards. Bonecutter Off Road carries all these options – can be ordered through our online store! If you are in need for chain, you cannot beat quality. Our recommendations are the Firepower Gold O-ring chain, D.I.D. Gold O-ring chain, or SRT Gold O-ring chain. I have been using the Firepower chains on my bikes for over a year now and I seem to get longer use out of them compared to other chains. Appearance wise, the chain looks good and durable. The first two pictures are what the worst case scenario looks like if a chain breaks and the rider has no slave cylinder guard. More Posts Back To Blog Page

Wrench Tip Wednesday: Dirt Bike Maintenance Checklist How many of you just hop on the bike for a big riding trip or race without going over the bike? It seems to be way more common than what I think is ideal. Preventative maintenance is always good idea versus the alternative, sitting out when you could be riding! This list that follows is what we do to all of our Beta’s and Sherco’s before a race or a big ride. Number 1 – Is your bike still dirty? Sometimes I do slack and fail to get my bikes washed in a reasonable time frame. With a dirty dirt bike, it makes working on it and inspecting very difficult. Plus, it gets the workspace dirty and not many people enjoy working in filth. SO – WASH IT! Number 2 – Review your prior entries in the dirt bike diary and compare hours then to hours now. How is a person supposed to know what the bike needs without a reference! Number 3 – If you properly washed your bike, you should of already removed your air filter. If not, go ahead and inspect it. If it is dirty, remove, clean, and re-install. Pro tip – when installing make sure the filter has grease on the outside and a thick bead around the rim! Number 4 – Check the spark plug! This lets the mechanic know how the bike is running, too lean or too rich. Plus, changing or cleaning the plug helps reduce the chances of fouling a plug. Number 5 – Bleed the brakes! Losing the brakes is super scary and usually can be prevented. We always bleed our brakes for insurance. Inspect the brake pads and make sure they do not need to be replaced. Number 6 – Change the oil! Keeping clean, fresh oil in the bike helps prevent premature wear. For Beta, we recommend Motul Transoil or Motul 7100 10w-40. For Sherco, we recommend Bel Ray Thumper. We have found that these oils last longer than most which equals less oil changes. Number 7 – Check the battery! Make sure it is charged and has no lose connections. Lose connections can cause damage to the battery. Keeping an eye on the battery also helps know when it is getting weak and should be replaced. Number 8 – Check the chain and sprockets! Are your sprockets missing any teeth or starting to curl? What about the chain, has it seen better days? A chain breaking or derailing can be expensive and dangerous. It won’t always be prevented but always check its condition as well as the masterlink. Number 9 – Check the coolant! It isn’t a great idea to start with coolant levels already low and risking the chances of overheating and bike failure. Remember, do not mix different brands. If coolant is low and you are unsure what is in it, you are better off to drain it and start fresh. Number 10 – If you run tubes in your tires, check the air pressure. Or go a safer route and run Bib Mousses! Number 11 – Check the spokes! Make sure they are not loose or broken. Be sure to not overtighten because it could result in them breaking during the next ride. Number 12 – Go around the entire bike and make sure everything is tight. While doing this, do a visual inspection and see if anything else needs attention. Like are the cables in good shape? Have any leaks? Check to make sure all bearings are in proper working order and not seized or loose. This is just a basic list. The number of hours on the bike ultimately depends on what all is required for the next ride, it could be top end time! Keeping up on routine maintenance sounds expensive but in the end it will for sure save you more time and money in the long run! More Posts Back To Blog Page

Wrench Tip Wednesday: Battery Maintenance Battery maintenance is often overlooked but almost just as important as an oil change, especially if you have a fuel injected dirt bike. I am not just referring to charging the battery but also checking the battery. Constant contact between the cables and battery is absolutely necessary. Keep in mind, anything that can be tightened can also come loose. Be sure to check the battery terminals where the cables connect to ensure they are tight. If not, the bike will not receive full charge. If it is a lead acid, sometimes it can leak. It will be white stuff around the battery terminals. Do not touch or sniff it. Put on gloves and remove the cables. Use baking soda while scrubbing with a wire brush to get rid of it. If left alone, the terminals can corrode. Ensure the battery is secure in the bike. If the battery moves around, it can be ruined or temporarily not work. Keep up on charging. If the bike is going to sit awhile, hooking up a battery tender is not a bad idea. If the battery charge gets low it could ruin the battery. Fuel injected four strokes are voltage sensitive and it is hard on the bike to let the battery go low. IMPORTANT – If you use a lithium battery make sure the battery charger used is for lithium batteries! I recommend a good quality battery. It can make or break you! I have had excellent luck with WPS house brand, Fire Power featherlight lithium batteries! I have one in both of my bikes and one of them is almost 4 years old with no issues! Lead battery wise, I recommend Yuasa. I know light batteries are the thing now but some manufactures, such as Beta, recommend a lead acid battery in their four strokes. More Posts Back To Blog Page