tech tip

Wrench Tip Wednesday: Dirty Bike = NO GOOD A clean bike is a happy bike. I get extremely bent out of shape if my bike is dirty for long. Washing bikes is tedious work and I personally do not enjoy it but I can’t stress the importance of it enough. When the dirt bike is clean, it is easier to inspect damage and work on. What is your opinion, is it a good idea to have dirt clumps falling inside the engine or reservoir’s? How I wash my bike varies on the scenario. It depends on if it was a mudder, what needs worked on, or just needs cleaned. If the bike is just typical dirty and it only needs routine maintenance, I do not take a lot apart. Pull the seat off and install an air filter plug. When it is a mudder, I remove EVERYTHING after washing to my best ability. If you have never done this, you would be shocked at how much dirt hides in the little crevices of the bike. If it is rebuild time (no matter how dirty), I pull the seat, air box cover, and the tank. Anytime the tank is pulled off, make sure the fuel line connection is blocked off. Removing the tank and plastics leave a lot of wires exposed, make sure you don’t spray an excessive amount of water on them. Time to learn how to scrub! Major key items; power washer, scrub brushes, and soap. Without them you are wasting your time. I first rinse as much dirt off as possible. Then, I will lay it down on its side. This helps get areas hard to see clean. For soaps. I use purple power, bleach white (for white plastics), or Maxima Biowash. Before using any type of cleaner make sure the bike is wet and DO NOT let it sit too long. Most cleaners can stain. Once the soap is applied, I start scrubbing and immediately following I will wash it off. If you run a raw header that is not completely rusted, a good way to clean it is purple power and Brillo pads. Brillo pads can be used on any raw metal service, to bring the shine back. Make sure you are not just focusing on plastics. Mud that sits in bearing or seals makes them go bad faster. Get the chain clean. Let’s just go with, there should not be any dirt or grime on your bike when you are finished washing it. After washing, use an air nozzle and blow the bike off. Use common sense and do no blow places off you shouldn’t. Over time the bike and plastics start to look dull, Maxima SC1 smells wonderful and will brighten it back up! Lastly, apply chain lube to the chain so it won’t rust. If you have a raw header such as FMF Fatty, make sure you oil it. I prefer to use Lucas Tool Box Buddy, it is nice and thick. Now that you have a sparkly clean bike, you should have an idea what needs fixed and it is time to get to work!! More Posts Back To Blog Page

Wrench Tip Wednesday: Bleeding Rear Brakes Are you a rear brake rider? Well, I am no professional but I have learned in the past year that if you are in the so called “proper position” on the bike (STANDING ON YOUR TOES) it is impossible to ride your rear brakes. Anyways, back to the point, do you bleed your brake fluid before or after every race? It is not a must but I personally prefer doing preventative maintenance, the risk of losing the rear brakes in a race is not worth it to me. First step, make sure you have brake fluid on hand. There is a lot of good brands out there varying in prices and boiling points. If you boil your fluid often, I highly recommend Castrol RBF or Motul 660 RBF. Another good brand out there is Maxima RBF. Next, remove the rear brake reservoir cover. Try to avoid getting any dirt or debris inside. I go ahead and pour brake fluid in and top the reservoir off. Attach a clear piece of tubing to the bleeder nipple (located on the brake caliper), routing the other end into a drain tub. When in a pinch, I will lay down an old towel or rag to catch the fluid vs the tubing. Press down on the brake pedal, then, take your wrench and open the bleeder a ¼ – ½ of a turn. Brake fluid should be traveling through the tube. Close the bleeder. Pump the brake pedal a few times and reopen. NEVER DEPRESS AND RELEASE THE BRAKE PEDAL WITH THE BLEEDER OPEN!!! Pay attention to the color of the fluid coming out. If it is a lot darker than the new fluid keep on bleeding the brakes. There is no sense in keeping any old worn out fluid in there. Another key tip, do not let the fluid reservoir run out of fluid. If you do, it can result in getting air in your lines. Which can be a big pain in the rear! Once you are done bleeding the rear brake, check the level of fluid in the reservoir before putting the cover back on. Make sure it is above the minimum and below the maximum. Having too much fluid can also cause the brakes not work as well. Remember, doing preventative maintenance might result in LESS oh sh!t moments come race day! More Posts Back To Blog Page

Wrench Tip Wednesday: Air Filter Installation Did you know an air filter is one of the most important components on a dirt bike? The purpose of it is to capture dirt to prevent it getting in the carb and sucked into the engine. So, it is kind of a SUPER BIG DEAL! A leaky air filter can cause premature wear, such as, top end components (piston and rings) wearing out sooner than they should. Glove up and let’s install an air filter properly. First off, a clean air filter is a must. If you install a dirty clogged filter, it can reduce performance and make the bike sluggish. Take your clean filter and apply foam filter oil to it. Lots of good ones out there – PJ1, Motul, Bel Ray, etc. Most oils can be purchased in two different ways aerosol or pourable. It is personal preference but we prefer to use aerosol spray because it allows control of the amount of oil applied to the filter. It is important to insure coverage of the entire filter, sometimes kneading the oil in is necessary. The oil helps catch the dirt so having too much is always better than not enough. Now that the air filter is all oiled up, install your filter cage. The most vital step that is often forgot; apply a THICK BEAD OF GREASE around the rim. If this step is skipped you will guarantee yourself a leaky filter and premature engine failure. We recommend a good water resistant grease that has stability under high temperatures such as Lucas Red “N” Tacky Grease or Bel Ray Waterproof Grease. It is time to install the air filter. Make sure it lines up with the filter box, to insure its 100% sealed. Now you are ready to ride! We stock all products discussed and can be purchased on our online store! CHANCES ARE IF YOUR FACE LOOKS LIKE THIS SO DOES YOUR FILTER! More Posts Back To Blog Page